It is possible to over-fill a hub when a Bearing Buddy is in use because they make it so easy to pump in wheel bearing grease. Usually the victim of an over-filled hub is the inner grease seal, however, not the Bearing Buddy itself. You'd blow out your inner seal long before you'd push off a Bearing Buddy in normal circumstances.
You may have installed the wrong size, or not fully seated them in the hub bore. If your inner grease seals are still intact (no obvious grease leakage) then... view full answer...
If the grease is on the back of the wheels, then the grease seals have failed and need to be replaced.
While you have the hub disassembled, make sure to examine the bearings and races to ensure they are in good shape.
When using the bearing protectors, over filling the hub with grease will cause grease to be pushed past the seal at the back of the hub. Be sure to follow the manufacturers directions for properly filling your hubs with the bearing protectors. We have a video which shows... view full answer...
The 470050 is an oil seal that is 1.281 x 1.983 x 0.437 inches. The outer diameter is a common size but the inner diameter is not. We unfortunately do not have anything to fit your seal.
I recommend checking your spindles using a digital caliper like # PTW80157. You will need to measure at the bearing locations as well as the seal location. If your spindle locations at the bearings are a common size, I can most likely find you a replacement assembly, but you may need to swap the seal... view full answer...
It sounds like you may be pumping too much grease into your hubs and that is causing the seal to fail and leak grease out of the hub. You may have blown the seal already, but if not I would recommend trying a smaller amount of grease in the hub and see if that stops the leak.
For a new seal you would want the # RG06-050 that you referenced.
We see this problem a lot with the Bearing Buddies. People end up putting too much grease in their hubs and it blows out the seal. view full answer...
In order to pick out the correct bearings, you are going to need to remove both inner and outer bearings from your hub and get the stamped numbers off of them. You will also need to get the number off of the seal as well. This will help you determine the proper hub-and-drum assembly. See diagram to the right and video attached for guidance.
Another way to determine the bearings and seal you will need is to use a dial caliper and measure the bearing and seal dimensions of the spindle on... view full answer...
If you are using a brake controller unit (for electric or EOH brakes) from Tekonsha, such as their Prodigy P2, P3 or Primus, these units send out a signal about every 4 seconds. This signal is the controller trying to find the electric brakes. If the clicking comes at about 4-second intervals it could simply be this controller signal, in which case you need not worry as long as the brakes are operating properly. If not, you can start by inspecting and testing.
I would start your troubleshooting... view full answer...
It sounds and looks to me like you have the wrong hub assembly for the spindle that is welded to the axle on your trailer. The photos you sent clearly show a 1-1/16 inch spindle similar to the BTR EZ Lube Spindle item # TRU44FR. This is a spindle for a 2,000 pound axle.
The parts that you referenced are for a 3,500 pound axle and definitely will not work on a spindle designed for a 2,000 pound axle. In addition, the photo of the hub that you sent looks like a hub for a 3,500 pound axle,... view full answer...
Assuming your spindle is ok, you need to double check your bearings and grease seal to make sure they are correct. If you are only 3/4 inch - 1 inch off, it is likely that the inner diameter of the grease seal is not large enough, thus not allowing it to seat onto the spindle properly. view full answer...
It sounds like the seals have failed and the grease from the bearings has come out during travel. Also it is possible that if you have an EZ lube axle with a grease zerk at the end to add grease but use a single lip seal, the pressure can blow out the single lip seal.
If you have mixed incompatible greases they can break down and could some how evacuate the hub.
You will want to inspect the seals on the trailers to see if they are the issue. I can tell you what replacement seals you... view full answer...
On double lip trailer hub seals there is a small spring that is designed to hold the seal tight to the spindle. It sounds like that spring made its way off of the seal and into your bearing.
Your best option would be to replace the bearings and seals. If the # BK1-100 has the bearings and seals that you would need this would be the correct kit. It comes with inner/outer bearings L44643 and a seal that has an inner diameter of 1.249.
The bearings are both designed to fit a spindle that... view full answer...
Your Karavan Trailer most likely uses the Grease Caps # RG04-040 which have a removable Plug # DC-RP to access the grease zerk for adding grease. If you have something different please send me pictures so I can verify what is being used.
A trailer hub will typically have 2 places where water can get inside the hub, the grease cap or the grease seal on the back of the hub. Since you mentioned already having water inside the cap I recommend pulling the hub apart to check the internal components.... view full answer...
Because the zerk fitting is a press fit, if they are falling out I would recommend simply leaving them out and replacing your existing grease caps with bearing protectors like Bearing Buddies. The Bearing Buddies you need will depend on your hub bore, or the outer bearing number. Once the fittings start falling out, there is not much that can be done to keep them in place. The holes where the zerk fitting was and the holes in the spindle that the grease passed through will not cause any... view full answer...
A tang washer like # 5-101 or # 5-71 has a tab to secure the castle nut on the spindle so that it cannot rotate or back off on the threads. If the tang washer tab (or a cotter pin) is still in place in the notch on the castle nut (as in the linked photo) the nut should not be able to move.
The only other place where slack in the hub's fit could develop is at the back side where the grease seal installs. This is the portion of the spindle noted by the arrow in the linked diagram. If the... view full answer...
It is possible that you have single lip seals and need to replace them with double lip seals to avoid the grease leaking from the back of the hub. A double lip seal will have a stronger seal for EZ lube spindles such as # TRU74FR. The force of the grease being pumped in is too much for single lip seals to handle. Also, if using a powered grease gun, whether if it is electric or pneumatic, can also create too much pressure even for a double lip seal.
If you can tell me the seal number you... view full answer...
If the hubs and brake assemblies on your travel trailer are too hot to touch, then I recommend looking for a cause as excessive heat can certainly lead to issues down the road.
Typically, high heat on electric brake drums are related to the brake assembly being either damaged or simply misadjusted. The heat may also indicate a problem with the bearings in the hub, such as inadequate lubrication or damaged bearings. When bearings age and wear out, they tend to run hotter.
If you find... view full answer...
You may have had the castle nut too tight. If it was tight to the point that making it tighter would have bent the rotor then it was too tight. When you tighten the castle nut to hold the hub/rotor on you will tighten it with the appropriate wrench until it is tight then back if off to the nearest slot to put the cotter pin or tang on the washer in.
Ceramic pads will run cooler and generally can last longer and is a good upgrade from traditional brake pad material.
You also may way to... view full answer...
If all four wheels on your 2-year-old Big Horn 5th wheel trailer have suddenly leaked wheel bearing grease into the brake assemblies my initial thought is that perhaps the bearings have recently been re-packed (which is typically to be done at 6 or 12 month intervals depending on manufacturer) with either too much grease or with grease of an incorrect grade. While there are general-purpose grease products that can be used in multiple applications, wheel bearings usually require a grease... view full answer...
Hubs do have different depths. The key to choosing the right hub is matching up the weight capacity needed for the axle and matching the bearing set used. This ensures they will fit properly on your spindles and be able to handle the load put on them. You also want to match your wheel bolt pattern. All of our hubs are linked for you.
It is best to service trailer bearings at regular intervals, as outlined in the linked article. It is possible that the bearings failed from inadequate lubrication.... view full answer...
First be sure to check your Grease Seal # 58846 for any signs of damage on your CE Smith Hub Assembly # CE13511. The Grease Cap # F001518 would be a better option than the one with a rubber grommet since it is another part which can fail.
Personally I prefer the Bearing Buddy Bearing Protectors # BB1980A which have the auto check feature. The addition of the spring allows you to easily see the hub is full of grease and the tension the spring puts on the grease helps to keep water from... view full answer...
If the oil or grease of your hub is leaking out then the heat you have found is related to that. Without proper lubrication the hub is getting hot. If this is a grease hub and you put oil in it then that would be why it would be leaking out.
Or you overfilled the hub with grease and in doing so blew out the seal. This is a common problem with people who use Bearing Buddies. Either way you need to replace the seal and repack the hub with grease properly.
I attached a video that demonstrates... view full answer...
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